Tuesday, October 27, 2009

‘Függerei’ng Things Out



So I am now sitting in a rather large coffee shop in downtown Munich, and about to rapidly attempt to describe the last few days in the twenty or so minutes I have before the shop closes (as great as this city is, everything closes early unless it is a restaurant or a Brauhaus). Besides eating daily copious amounts of cheese, the last few days have been quite varied. So back to Rothenburg, and where our journey left off.
Jason and I had an early start Sunday morning—successfully out of our hotel by 8am, which left us on the deserted cobblestone streets of the town. (We would come to find out a little later that it was in fact 7am when e were out and about since Daylight Savings Time had occurred the night before). Our bad ;). We ate a delicious breakfast at a local bäckerei, and then toured the town. Although it was drizzling slightly, it was absolutely beautiful. We came to a point where we could look at the far wall of the town with all the red-roofed houses safely tucked behind, and then downward to the lazy Tauber River ambling below. We then proceeded to make our way to the town center in order to climb the courthouse tower (which our map claimed to have the best views). Although the narrow flight of old wooden stairs was slightly unnerving, the view was breathtaking. The grand stone gate towers that marked the four entrances into the city appeared as mere legos—the town itself a child’s medieval play set.
Yet before the rain got too heavy, Jason and I were checked out of the hotel, and lugging our suitcases once more to some distant train station. We did notice, however (and to our satisfaction), several buses unloading hordes of Japanese tourists with bright pink and green umbrellas; we left Rothenburg in the nick of time. The next several hours led to the before-mentioned realization of “No Sunday traveling, bitte”, as all of the trains we were supposed to take to reach Augsburg that night were either hours apart or not coming at all. Oh the woes of ignorance. But onwards….
Well we finally made it to our hotel in Augsburg (by far the shadiest place we have stayed in thus far). Of the major things to see in Augsburg, Maximilianstrasse—supposedly the most beautiful street in all of southern Germany—was the first on my list. (Hold that thought…. I am currently being reminded that the coffee shop I am in is now closed…..
……Ok, I am back. From where, you ask? The McDonald’s next door. Probably the most tacky place to compose a blog, but desperate times call for certain measures that I would never do back home ☺). When Jason and I finally reached Maximilianstrasse, it was pouring rain. We were cold, wet, hungry, and tired, and needless to say, Maximilianstrasse did not appear to be the most beautiful street. And because we arrived on a Sunday, it didn’t help that everything was closed. However, our late dinner (although expensive) improved the testy situation. As I indulged in a delicious Quiche Lorraine with a glass of local Chardonnay, Jason’s stronger taste buds ventured to try the breaded pumpkin with risotto and a hearty wheat beer. The rain did not lift after dinner, and we decided to call it an early night.
The next morning, we shared a scrumptious breakfast of freshly baked croissants with strawberry jam, Müsli with sour yogurt (a typical European dish), fruit, and coffee. We sat at a window that overlooked the courthouse, the neighboring church, and the central Emperor Augustus fountain. Halfway through breakfast the sun brilliantly (and finally) came out, and we were greeted to a quasi-warm morning. After breakfast we went to the Függerei (the world’s oldest social settlement), and by far my favorite part of Augsburg. Now the history lesson (I know, you have been impatiently waiting for this to come). Well wait no longer ☺: Where our hotel and the Függerei are situated is in the Jakober section of town which was the most destroyed section of Augsburg after WWII. The name comes from Jakob Függer, who founded the Függerei in 1521. The complex was set up to serve the needy citizens of Augsburg, and the apartments are still in use by the poor today. During the Second World War, the Függerei housed an air-raid shelter, and many of the buildings—including the Catholic church onsite—were destroyed. Jason and I were able to tour the actual bomb shelter and learn of the destruction and reconstruction of Augsburg during the war along the way.
I happily left the Függerei complex—caffeinated from my WWII morning fix, and returned to the hotel to (also happily) checkout. Immediately upon walking to catch the tram, I began to use the fun word “Függerei” whenever I had the chance. Jason and I were not nervous about catching the 40 minute, non-stop train ride to Munich because we had ‘függerei’d (figured) out Germany’s rail system ☺. Hier kommt die Deutschbahn!

1 comment:

  1. Holly,

    Needless to say, we enjoy reading every word of your great adventure. The only thing we don't like about it is that we are not there to share it with you. Between the coffee, cheese, bread and schnitzel, when do you have time to run?

    Love ya,

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